What’s in a name?

Why is a common box called a “bandbox”? Originally, around the 16th century in Britain, this kind of pasteboard box was used to store elaborate starched ruffed collars, sometimes of immense size (fig. 1), the kind we can often see on Flemish and Dutch paintings of the era.

By the 17th century, the fashion of huge collars declined. One of the reasons was criticism from Protestants, who, besides finding them uncomfortable and awkward, argued that they served only to emphasize wealth and prestige.

During the 17th century, boxes were used to store a simple band with minimal lace. It is this type of collar the word “band” refers to. Unlike the stiffened ruffed collars of earlier times, falling collars rested gracefully across the shoulders. They were generally made from fine Dutch or Flemish linen and served as an ideal vehicle for the display of lavish lace trimming, a very valuable commodity. Therefore, the nobility preferred wearing such falling collars, or bands. We can see them in many paintings, such as the portrait by Anthony van Dyck of Henri II of Lorraine (fig. 2).