To each one’s own kogin

Kogin patterns were not the same across the villages and towns of the Tsugaru region: in fact, different areas developed different patterns.

The kimono pictured here is embroidered in ‘Western kogin style’ (西こぎん nishi kogin). This denomination indicated the west of the Iwaki River, for example the areas of Nishimeya, Soma, Funazawa and Kozawa. The stripes on the shoulder area indicate its origins: the farmers in this area often walked up the mountains while carrying heavy loads on their shoulders, which means that their clothing needed extra reinforcement in the shoulder area. To strengthen the garment, striped kogin, such as the one we see here, was developed where 5 or more horizontal stripes of white cotton stitches were embroidered onto the shoulders.

Western kogin was not the only regional pattern. ‘Eastern Kogin’ (東こぎん higashi kogin), typical of the rice-growing regions east of the Iwaki River, was characterized by the lack of stripes, and by bigger and bolder patterns. And Mishima kogin (三縞こぎん) was developed in the area of the delta of the Iwaki River, and it presented three bands of striped embroideries on the torso, both at the front and the back of the kimono.

Undoubtedly, this made it easy for people of the Tsugaru region to be able to tell the area of origin of people wearing a certain kogin style. This may not only have provided a strong sense of belonging to each area, but may also have defined the value of the makers (and perhaps of the wearers). For example, the delicate patterns of Western kogin were known for being painstakingly made using delicate fibers, which must have meant that the women making them were dedicated and hard working, with an eye for detail. This even gave origin to an idiom: “If you are going to marry, take a bride from the West”!