Step 1 of 3

Madeleine

Madeleines are small, light sponge cakes characterized by their particular shape: they are baked in scallop-shaped molds which give them their distinct elongated shell shape: ridged on one side, and plump on the other.D. Greenspan, Baking: From My Home to Yours (New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 2006), 166. Typically, they have a crisp exterior and moist interior and were originally flavored with orange flower water. Traditionally they are served with tea or coffee. G. Rinsky and L.H. Rinsky, The Pastry Chef's Companion: A Comprehensive Resource Guide for the Baking, (Hoboken, N.J.: John Wiley & Sons, 2009), 170.

Although the origin is debated, it is believed they are named after Madeleine Paumier, a servant of Stanislaw Leszczyński, the eighteenth-century duke of Lorraine, who had his residence in the town of Commercy that is part of the Lorraine region. Supposedly, Madeleine baked the little cakes in 1755 when Stanislaw’s pastry cook had left the dinner without a dessert after an argument with his intendant. When Stanislaw was told that Madeleine had baked the little cakes, he declared that they should be named after her.S.F. Walker, Cryptic Subtexts in Literature and Film: Secret Messages and Buried Treasure (New York, NY: Routledge, 2019), 84. To this day, madeleines are still products specific to Commercy. M. Hyman and P, Hyman. "Northern French Cuisines." Encyclopedia of Food and Culture volume 2, Solomon H. Katz (ed.), (Charles Scribner's Sons, 2003), 36. Gale eBooks, Accessed 10 May 2021.

Yet, an alternative explanation of the name of these little cakes refers to a very different Madeleine. Madeleine after all, is also the French name for Saint Mary Magdalene. In the New Testament she is described as one of the followers of Jesus who witnessed his crucifixion and entombment, and the first to see Jesus after his resurrection. Several orders of nuns have adopted her name while the scallop-shell shape has also become the traditional symbol of Catholic pilgrimage, such as the Pilgrimage of Compostela where pilgrims are given such a shell. This would suggest that perhaps madeleines were originally baked with a more religious purpose in mind.A. Jack, What Caesar Did For My Salad: The Secret Meanings of our Favourite Dishes, (London: Penguin, 2012) 74.

In In Search of Lost Time, Marcel too seems to be familiar with this religious connotation as he describes them as ‘(…) those squat, plump little cakes called “petites madeleines,” which look as though they had been moulded in the fluted scallop of a pilgrim’s shell.’ Again later on, he points out that they are ‘so richly sensual under [their] severe, religious folds.’ M. Proust, C.K. Scott Moncrieff, Terence Kilmartin and D.J. Enright, In Search of Lost Time: Volume 1: Swanns way (New York: Modern Library, 1992), 60 and 63. Aside from this, it is worth noting that Proust spent the majority of the first thirty years of his life in Paris in his apartment at 9 Boulevard Malesherbes, from which he would have been able to see the Church of St. Mary Magdalene, commonly referred to simply as la Madeleine. As such, the image of la Madeleine as a Catholic sacred symbol suggests another reading of Proust’s madeleine. Walker, Cryptic Subtexts, 85.Later on, we will see how madeleines function in In Search of Lost Time.